Motel 6, San Simeon to Treebones Resort, Big Sur
From my Facebook logs:
From my Facebook logs:
"My phone has no connection and Wi-Fi is scarce. When it's available it barely works. But quick update.
Day 17: Following the girls' GPS from last year I missed San Simeon beach. The CCT has a regular route and and alternative route, which is basically highway 1. The girls took the highway. I found a trail tocut down to the beach for a final segment, it was much better than walking the highway. I made sure not to miss the next off road segment, a trail that led tos secluded black sand beach with a secret lake. The trail wound around through a rock arch near the water. The moss covered rocks were beautiful but slippery and as soon as I made it around the point I was searching for a way to the top of the canyon surrounding the beach, the tide seemed to be coming in. Off in the distance I spotted what looked like a path up and ran for it. It was a slide of sand that I had to run up. It felt like a stair stepper, with every step up my foot slid down a little. I was happy to have escaped the waves. At the top I was greeted with small dunes covered with green foliage as far as the eye could see, and more ocean cliffs. I followed the path, which skirted the cliffs, around and down to a second beach (I made sure there was a path back to the top at the end). Another deserted gem, everything was covered in fog, then suddenly the sun came out and I was simultaneously enamored with the views and scared about my water running out. I headed back to the road. After a few miles i saw what looked like a trail leading to the coast, where the official trail should have been. I followed it and for a half mile or so it was wonderful,more breathtaking views of the ocean from high cliffs, but then it abruptly ended at the top of a large gully. I took what appeared to be a trail leading back to the road, but it soon became overgrown with thorns and poison oak. Having no other choice I went through. I vowed then to simply follow the alternate route through the highway until Ragged Point.
At the Ragged Point Inn I met Chris who had told me onthe phone of an alternate route to get around the mud slide, he also said bikers were getting through the closed road at night. After dinner, device charging, and lots of debate (and meeting an interesting fellow traveler, by car, who didn't know theroad was closed!) I decided on the alternate mountain route which was actually an alternate route for the CCT.
Wanting to get more miles inthat night I set outfor the trail. Chris had triedto warmme it was gnarly but I wanted to try. After about 10 feet I saw what he meant. I couldn't even findthe trail in the dark or else I needed to dosome climbing. Taking the closed road seemed safer, so I did. I was relieved when after 8 miles I was on the other side.
I ran by a resort I stayed at on my way to Western States last year. Then made out to Treebones, a glamping resort where residents stay in yurts and share a bathroom, they had said I could join for $10 breakfast. But it was 4am. The bathroom was unlocked so I charged my phone and took a shower. I had burst into tears the nightbefore at motel 6 when the receptionist said there was nothing she could do for me when I had no cash for the vending machine shampoo. She did give me some shampoos after my tears, she told me it was a small thing not worth crying over, i told her notwhen you haven't showered in for days, don't know when you'll shower again, and pay $80 for a hotel. So... finding a free shower complete with shampoo was a miracle blessing, especially after the poison oak"
While in the bathroom a woman graciously gave me the Wi-Fi password and I did some planning for the next leg and enjoyed my connection with the outside world. After the shower I found a flat patch of dirt amongst the bushes, out of the way of the glampers, and slept for a couple of hours before joining the $10 breakfast.
There were fences and signs prohibiting access to the coast after I went through the patch of poison oak and thorns. I have in my notes that the road was closed near La Cruz Rock for habitat restoration. I tried going down the road a little ways but headed back to the highway, didn't want to violate the law. There was a sign for a Sea Otter Game Refuge from Carmel to Cambria west of Highway 1. I wasn't sure if I could take the trail there so stuck to the highway. This was near the section overgrown will thorns and poison oak. Perhaps following the highway here, as the girls last year did too, is the only option right now.
I have in my notes that I missed a part of the elephant seal path, a small path that takes tourists by elephant seals. I was on the less scenic highway instead but saw the seals from the road. There was a section of trail near the lighthouse that was roped off so I didn't take it, later there was a sign saying that the beaches in that area are closed because of the seals.
Photos not in chronological order - hope to fix later
I learned later on this is where local monks congregate:
While in the bathroom a woman graciously gave me the Wi-Fi password and I did some planning for the next leg and enjoyed my connection with the outside world. After the shower I found a flat patch of dirt amongst the bushes, out of the way of the glampers, and slept for a couple of hours before joining the $10 breakfast.
There were fences and signs prohibiting access to the coast after I went through the patch of poison oak and thorns. I have in my notes that the road was closed near La Cruz Rock for habitat restoration. I tried going down the road a little ways but headed back to the highway, didn't want to violate the law. There was a sign for a Sea Otter Game Refuge from Carmel to Cambria west of Highway 1. I wasn't sure if I could take the trail there so stuck to the highway. This was near the section overgrown will thorns and poison oak. Perhaps following the highway here, as the girls last year did too, is the only option right now.
I have in my notes that I missed a part of the elephant seal path, a small path that takes tourists by elephant seals. I was on the less scenic highway instead but saw the seals from the road. There was a section of trail near the lighthouse that was roped off so I didn't take it, later there was a sign saying that the beaches in that area are closed because of the seals.
Photos not in chronological order - hope to fix later
I learned later on this is where local monks congregate:
My original Facebook post:
Photos from Day 17, 18, 19:
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